Design

The design section is reserved for my sketches, models, and photos of parts I’ve made:Locost Model:

The model of a Locost build, with the frame being mostly complete, the steering rack and front suspension roughly set up, the steering wheel in place, the rear axle set up with it’s 5 link suspension (missing the Panard rod). This was made in Google SketchUp, a free modeling program. It is purely for looking at, as the program offers little in the CAD department but it kept me busy and familiarized me with the build process before I started.


Locost Frame


Custom Pedal Design - Some designs for pedals I drew up. Just for fun.

Rear axle/suspension design: The rear axle for my Locost is a solid axle with an open differential. Not the best set up for racing, but it will get the car moving and that’s my goal. A solid axle is an axle that is solid from wheel to wheel, unlike an independent axle where the wheels are able to move independent of each other. Independent rear axles are better for racing because the wheels can handle motion independently and keep the car steady while they, using the suspension, absorb ground interference. The live axle will transfer motion to either wheel back to the opposite wheel and cause it to react also, meaning that if the driver side wheel hits a bump, the passenger side suspension must also aid in absorbing the motion. The suspension I will be using makes use of four trailing arms and a Panhard rod to keep the rear axle mounted to the frame, and able to absorb bumps.The first step is to create the suspension brackets (2), after removing the originals on the rear axle. These are welded to the casing over the rear axle and allow for a coil-over shock absorber and two trailing arms to be connected to each. From the rear axle the trailing arms connect to the chassis, perpendicular to the axle. This allows them to swing up and down, with the movement of bumps on the road. The shock absorber absorbs these bumps and returns the car to it’s default ride height. The Panhard rod is a link from the axle to the chassis but connected in parallel to the axle, maintaining the axles position laterally (left and right of the car).Building the brackets: The rear axle suspension brackets were drawn out on paper and then cut from 1/8″ steel plate. They surround one half of the axle housing and have room for the top and bottom rod ends to bolt in, as well as a spot for the shock absorber to mount.Building the trailing arms: The trailing arms need to be strong, thus I am using 1.25″ DOM tube with a wall thickness of 0.188″. The tube inner diameter is 0.87″. These will be fitted with weld in bungs to connect the rod ends, that will in turn bolt to the frame. The weld in bungs are sections of tube that have a threaded inside, allowing them to accept the screw end of a rod end. These bungs are welded into the trailing arm tube.


Camaro rear axle dimensions:Axle sizes